Well I made it through completing the rest of my legs for the sawbench last night. I learned a few valuable lessons and tried some new tools and techniques.
I don’t have a good, sharp rip saw. I have an old Disston 5ppi, but it is badly dull, and gets stuck in the kerf when trying to cut. When ripping my last leg, I only had about 2 inches to remove, so I tried a technique I saw on The Woodwright’s Shop. You can cut kerfs along your edge and then chisel the waste away. Well this tends to work better on straight grained wood, and my leg had a knot, so… one of legs now has a small section where it’s width dips in past my target width where the knot split off. Oh well, it is just a shop appliance, so it will serve.
Another obstacle I had was that I have no bevel gauge. I actually did buy an old one from eBay, but it wouldn’t stay tight and I ended up returning it.
Since the two angles I needed were perpendicular to each other, I just ended up eyeballing one leg and using a square to scribe the mating angle. Works in a pinch. I then used the finished leg as a template for the others.
When truing up the shoulders, I started by locking the leg in a handscrew and clamping this to my workbench. This allows you to pare across the cheek (which is flush with the jaws of the handscrew) with a chisel. For the shoulder, I used my Lie-Nielsen large shoulder plane. An incredibly simple, yet precise tool. I did tear out a side initially, but quickly changed to coming in from both sides, and that eliminated the problem.